First Published: 15th August 2024, written by Olivia Doonan | Last Updated on 15th August 2024 | Reviewed and Edited by Chloe Safilo
Rolex, founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis, is synonymous with luxury, precision, and timeless design. Over the decades, Rolex has introduced a range of iconic timepieces that have set benchmarks in the world of horology. From pioneering innovations to creating timeless classics, here’s a brief look at the history of Rolex models, both new and old.
1. The Beginnings: Early Icons
- Rolex Oyster (1926): The Rolex Oyster was introduced in 1926 as the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. This ground-breaking model set the foundation for Rolex’s reputation in durability and reliability. It featured a hermetically sealed case, protecting the movement from dust and water, and is considered the forefather of all Rolex watches.
- Rolex Oyster Perpetual (1931): In 1931, The watch brand introduced the Oyster Perpetual, the first automatic winding watch with a Perpetual rotor. This innovation allowed the wearer’s natural wrist movements to wind the watch, eliminating the need for manual winding. The Oyster Perpetual became the basis for many future Rolex models.
2. The Evolution of Tool Watches
- Rolex Datejust (1945): Launched in 1945 to mark Rolex’s 40th anniversary, the Datejust was the first wristwatch to display the date through a window on the dial. Its timeless design and practical functionality made it an instant classic, a model that remains one of Rolex’s most popular to this day.
- Rolex Submariner (1953): The Rolex Submariner, introduced in 1953, is one of the most iconic dive watches ever made. Designed for underwater exploration, it was the first watch to be water-resistant to 100 metres. The Submariner’s robust design, unidirectional bezel, and legible dial have made it a favourite among divers and watch enthusiasts alike.
- Rolex GMT-Master (1955): The GMT-Master was developed in 1955 in collaboration with Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) for their pilots. It featured a dual time zone function, allowing pilots to read the time in two different time zones simultaneously. The iconic “Pepsi” bezel became a symbol of global travel and adventure.
3. Modern Icons
- Rolex Daytona (1963): The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was introduced in 1963, designed for professional racing drivers. Its tachymetric scale, three sub-dials, and high-performance movement made it an essential tool for measuring average speeds. The Daytona, particularly the models associated with Paul Newman, has become one of the most sought-after Rolex watches in history.
- Rolex Explorer II (1971): The Rolex Explorer II was introduced in 1971 as an evolution of the original Explorer. It featured a 24-hour hand and a fixed bezel, making it ideal for spelunkers and adventurers who needed to distinguish between day and night in low-light environments. The Explorer II’s rugged design and functionality have cemented its place in the Rolex lineup.
4. Contemporary Innovations
- Rolex Sky-Dweller (2012): The Rolex Sky-Dweller, launched in 2012, is one of the most complex watches ever created by Rolex. It features an annual calendar and a dual time zone display, all controlled by the innovative Ring Command bezel. This skydweller model showcases Rolex’s ability to blend sophisticated complications with user-friendly design.
- Rolex Yacht-Master II (2007): The Rolex Yacht-Master II, introduced in 2007, is a regatta chronograph designed for competitive sailing. The yachtmaster timepiece features a programmable countdown function with mechanical memory, allowing skippers to synchronise with the race start times. Its bold design and advanced functionality make it a standout in the Rolex collection.
Rolex Models Comparison
Rolex Model | Design | Functionality | Movement | Market Value |
Submariner | Dive watch, unidirectional bezel, legible dial. | Diving, water-resistant to 300m, luminescent hands. | Caliber 3130/3235, 70-hour power reserve. | Highly sought after, retains value well. |
Datejust | Elegant, formal/casual wear, date window with Cyclops lens. | Everyday wear, date function, water-resistant to 100m. | Caliber 3135/3235, 70-hour power reserve. | Varies with material, vintage models highly valued. |
Daytona | Racing chronograph, tachymeter scale, three sub-dials. | Chronograph, water-resistant to 100m, tachymeter scale. | Caliber 4130, 72-hour power reserve. | Extremely high, especially vintage models. |
GMT-Master II | Pilot’s watch, 24-hour bezel, dual time zone. | Dual time zone, water-resistant to 100m, rotating bezel. | Caliber 3186/3285, 70-hour power reserve. | Strong resale value, highly collectible. |
Explorer II | Adventurer’s watch, 24-hour bezel, rugged design. | Dual time zone, water-resistant to 100m, Chromalight display. | Caliber 3187, 70-hour power reserve. | Affordable, vintage models gaining value. |
The Rolex Timeline
- 1905: Rolex Founded by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis in London, focusing on high-quality wristwatches.
- 1926: Rolex Oyster – The first waterproof wristwatch, establishing Rolex’s reputation for durability.
- 1931: Rolex Oyster Perpetual – The first automatic winding wristwatch with the Perpetual rotor.
- 1945: Rolex Datejust – First wristwatch with an automatically changing date on the dial, marking Rolex’s 40th anniversary.
- 1953:
- Rolex Submariner – First dive watch water-resistant to 100 meters, becoming an iconic model.
- Rolex Explorer – Launched after the successful Everest ascent, built for extreme conditions.
- 1955: Rolex GMT-Master – Developed for Pan Am pilots, featuring a dual time zone function.
- 1963: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona – Racing watch with a tachymeter scale and sub-dials, popular among drivers.
- 1971: Rolex Explorer II – Evolution of the Explorer, with a 24-hour hand and fixed bezel for adventurers.
- 1982: Rolex GMT-Master II – Enhanced GMT-Master with independent hour hand adjustment.
- 1992: Rolex Yacht-Master – Luxury sailing watch with a rotatable bezel.
- 2000: Rolex Daytona (Caliber 4130) – Upgraded with an in-house movement for improved precision.
- 2007: Rolex Yacht-Master II – Regatta chronograph with a programmable countdown for competitive sailing.
- 2008: Rolex Deepsea – Professional dive watch with a depth rating of 3,900 meters.
- 2012: Rolex Sky-Dweller – Complex model with an annual calendar and dual time zone, controlled by the Ring Command bezel.
- 2020: Rolex Submariner (41mm) – Updated with a 41mm case and Caliber 3230 movement.
- 2021: Rolex Explorer (36mm) – Return to the classic 36mm size, with a new two-tone version
Conclusion
From pioneering waterproof technology with the Oyster to creating modern masterpieces like the Sky-Dweller, Rolex’s history is a testament to innovation, precision, and timeless design. Each Rolex model, whether old or new, carries with it a legacy of excellence that has made Rolex the world’s most renowned watchmaker. Whether you’re drawn to the classic lines of a vintage Submariner or the advanced mechanics of a modern Sky-Dweller, owning a Rolex means owning a piece of horological history.